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An introduction to Valtènesi rosé

04 June 2025 By Louis Thomas

Nestled between the Alps and Lake Garda, the region of Valtènesi in Northern Italy is a haven for the production of gastronomically-inclined rosé.

Situated in the east of Lombardy, Valtènesi’s vineyard area covers 800 hectares across 18 municipalties in the province of Brescia. Of the three million bottles of wine the region produced last year, the vast majority (77%) were rosé

Juri Pagani, co-director of the Consorzio Valtènesi, says that there are a number of factors which set the rosé of Valtènesi apart from others in the north of Italy: “First and foremost, there is the extraordinary climate in which it is born. Valtènesi lies on the western shore of Lake Garda, and the lake itself plays a key role in shaping the region’s identity. It creates a mild, Mediterranean-like microclimate — a rare feature at these northern latitudes.”

“Winters here are gentle, summers are breezy, and temperatures remain well-balanced throughout the year, thanks to the constant air circulation from both the lake and the surrounding mountains,” he continues. “This allows the grapes to ripen slowly and evenly, preserving their freshness, elegance, and aromatic complexity. Unlike many other northern Italian regions, where the climate can be more extreme and temperature swings more pronounced, Valtènesi enjoys a climatic harmony that translates directly into the glass.”

Climate is not the only factor at play which sets the rosés of Valtènesi apart – the key grape of the region, Groppello, a thin-skinned local variety, is also vital.

“Grown exclusively along the western shores of Lake Garda, Groppello is the soul of the region’s pale, refined rosés—and its qualities make it a perfect match for this distinctive wine style. Delicate by nature, Groppello is defined by its thin skin and low anthocyanin content, the pigments that give red wines their colour. This natural trait makes it ideal for producing rosé wines, where only a brief maceration period is needed to extract just a whisper of colour,” Pagani shares.

“It’s perfectly suited to rosé production, giving wines with a pale colour, floral aromas, and subtle red fruit notes, often accompanied by a touch of white pepper or herbs,” says Pagani. “The winemaking process follows a precise and traditional approach: the so-called ‘wine of one night’ technique, where the grape skins remain in contact with the juice for just a few hours. This method yields rosés that are very light in color, dry, refined, and well-balanced, often compared to Provençal rosés but with a uniquely Italian soul, deeply rooted in the local terroir.”

History

Although rosé is becoming a booming business in Italy, with many producers keen to emulate the success of wineries in Provence, Valtènesi is not simply mimicking what goes on across the Alps. Instead, the region has a rich history of pink wine production, as Pagani reveals: “The rosé of Valtènesi has ancient roots and is linked—perhaps not by chance—to a captivating love story: that of Amalia Brunati, a noblewoman from Lake Garda, and Pompeo Molmenti, a Venetian senator and devoted wine lover. After their wedding in 1885, Molmenti settled on the Brunati family estate in Moniga del Garda, at the heart of the Valtènesi region.
It was there, in 1896, that the Senator formally defined the local rosé production method, laying the foundation for what we now know as Valtènesi. This style of wine had been known in the area since the 16th century, once called ‘claretto’, as documented by the Brescian agronomist Agostino Gallo (1499–1570).”

“Molmenti’s vision turned Valtènesi into a modern and refined wine, perfectly attuned to the elegant taste of the belle époque,” Pagani continues. “Recognition followed in 1904, when his wine was presented at the prestigious Brescia Exposition and awarded a gold medal. From that point on, the so-called ‘rosé of the Riviera’ became a stylish and elegant aperitif, featured in Milan’s salons and fashionable cafés of the early 20th century.”

Pairing picks

Fast forward 100 years, and Valtènesi rosé continues to go from strength-to-strength, the Groppello thriving on the east-facing slopes of the region, lit up by the rising sun, but protected from the intensity of the afternoon heat, enabling a more balanced maturation.

The complexity and character of Valtènesi rosé make it an excellent gastronomic wine, as Pagani explains: “Thanks to its fresh acidity, delicate aromas, and light body, it complements food without overwhelming it. For starters, think about the lake’s fresh fish. Grilled whitefish—known locally as coregone—is a perfect match. Its subtle flavors come alive alongside the rosé’s gentle herbal and peppery notes. Another great option is perch risotto, a creamy dish that pairs beautifully with the wine’s crispness and hints of red fruit. If you enjoy marinated trout, the wine’s freshness perfectly balances the tangy, vinegar-based marinade.”

It isn’t just fish from Lake Garda which fit the bill.

“Cheese lovers will appreciate how Valtènesi rosé enhances local specialties like Formagella di Tremosine, a mild, semi-soft cheese with a slight tang,” he suggests. “It also works wonderfully with local cured meats such as salami or Brescian coppa, where the wine’s acidity cuts through the richness and refreshes the palate. When it comes to pasta, try pairing the rosé with casoncelli alla bresciana – meat and herb-filled ravioli often served with butter and sage. The wine’s lift balances the richness and highlights the herbal notes. Bigoli with sardines is another flavourful local dish that finds harmony with a dry, crisp rosé.”

“For those who enjoy lighter meat dishes,” says Pagani, “rabbit with thyme is a classic pairing. The herbaceous character of the wine beautifully complements the delicate flavours of the meat and the seasoning. Stuffed vegetables like peppers, courgette and aubergine – especially when filled with cheese or grains – also match well with the rosé’s subtle sweetness and freshness.”

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